Masters Theses

Date of Award

12-1989

Degree Type

Thesis

Degree Name

Master of Science

Major Professor

Larry C. Wadsworth

Committee Members

Kermit Duckett, Carl Dyer

Abstract

In this study, nineteen different woven fabrics varying in fiber content, weight, finish and construction were tested to determine their uniformity in the warp and filling directions. The properties that were of interest in determining uniformity included fabric weight, thickness, and air permeability. Water spray rating, water impact penetration, and oil repellency ratings were determined to evaluate the surface characteristics of the fabrics. Bending lengths and fabric flexural rigidities were used as a measure of the drapability and stiffness of the fabrics. Wrinkle recovery angles were measured to determine the crease resistance behavior of the poplin fabrics. The fabrics consisted of 100% cotton denim fabrics, 100% cotton poplin fabrics and 75%/25% cotton/polyester poplin fabrics. The 100% cotton denim fabrics were provided in nominal weights of 10, 12 and 14.5 oz/yd2 Two different fabric constructions: 2/1 twill weave (10 oz/yd2 "indigo" denims) and 3/1 twill weave (all other "indigo" and "white" denim fabrics) were evaluated. The "indigo" denim fabrics were characterized in three different stages of preparation: greige state, desized and lightly scoured, desized, lightly scoured and fluorochemical finished. The "white" denim fabrics were characterized in two different stages of preparation: desized, scoured and bleached, and desized, scoured, bleached and fluorochemical finished. The poplin fabrics were evaluated in three different stages of preparation: bleached, bleached and durable press finished, and bleached and combination durable press and fluorochemical finished. To ascertain differences In the warp and filling direction properties, a two-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) with one observation per cell was conducted. A two-way ANOVA with two observations per cell was performed to determine interaction effects between location in the warp direction and location in the filling direction. Statistical analyses were also performed to compute possible differences between specimens that were separated by 1.5-2.0 meters along the warp direction, and to compute the components of variance. Significant differences in fabric weight, thickness and air permeability were found in the warp and filling directions at the 5% level of significance. No significant interaction effects were found between location in the warp direction and location in the filling direction. Significant differences in fabric weight and thickness were also found between specimens that were separated by 1.5-2.0 meters along the warp direction. The variance component due to random error accounted for a larger part of the variance compared to the other factors. In the qualitative comparisons among fabrics, all the fluorochemical finished fabrics exhibited excellent water spray ratings and oil repellency ratings. The fluorochemical finished denim fabrics did not allow any water to penetrate during the water Impact penetration test. However, there were notable amounts of water penetration through the fluorochemical finished 100% cotton and 75%/25% cotton/polyester poplin fabrics. The fluorochemical finished denim fabrics had greater bending lengths and fabric rigidity values compared to the desized and scoured fabrics. The "indigo" denims had lower overall fabric flexural rigidity values than the "white" denim fabrics indicating that they are softer and more drapable. The durable press finished, and the combination durable press and fluorochemical finished poplin fabrics had greater flexural rigidity values and were stiffer than fabrics that were only bleached. The application of durable press finish to the poplin fabrics improved the wrinkle recovery values to commercially acceptable levels.

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